Children playing together in one of the neighbourhood of Kampala - Uganda
July 4, 2009
EX-LRA REBELS RETURNING HOME: WHAT’S NEXT?
Gulu – Uganda. The name of this man cannot be revealed. Neither his face. He was once a child, abducted with his brother at the age of 12 on their way from school. He spent 21 years with the rebels, becoming a military chief. He escaped from the LRA to return to Gulu – his home town in Northern Uganda – under amnesty in 2007. He found that his parents had died, his only friend is another former rebel, and has yet no idea from where to start his new life. Twenty years as a combatant makes it difficult for former rebels to re-integrate in the society. Terrible atrocities have been committed during the war. Those who were raped, tortured, maimed, the formerly abducted persons and ex-LRA combatants who return are all supposed to start living together again. Co-living in peace is the biggest challenge for the Acholi communities, and having a past as a rebel certainly does not help.
The following interview is an honest account of this man’s experience. It was translated and facilitated by Geoffrey Lakwonyero, one of Caritas Gulu’s social workers.
Do you remember the day you were abducted?
It was in 1988. I was in school that day. After school my brother and I headed towards a river to bath. We were abducted on the way along with other two brothers. I am the only one who survived.
How old were you?
I was 12.
What happened after they ambushed you?
We started moving in the bush. We were loaded with heavy luggages. I remember that the rebels were many. We kept on moving all the time. Until they started training us to become soldiers in their camps.
Where did they train you?
We were brought to Southern Sudan. That’s where they trained us. There were many of us and we where divided in groups. Each group had an instructor. During the training they teach you how to use the weapons, how to shoot. But not only. Many other skills are involved. You must be prepared for the enemy to come at any moment, you must be on alert. Creativity is also part of the skills that a good soldiers must have.
What kind of relationship did you have with the other child-soldiers?
We were all like brothers and sisters. The bond among us was difficult to break, because the life of one depends on the life of somebody else. For instance if somebody is left without food, another one would share.
Have you ever been forced to kill one of your friends, one of the child soldiers?
When you are ordered to execute orders you have to do it, otherwise you risk your own life. In captivity there are certain rules. You are not supposed to escape for instance, so why would you? If you tried you would be killed. Usually, there are special squads for this. You have to know that when somebody escapes form captivity, the government wants you to report on everything. The rebels would kill you so to prevent you from giving sensitive information to the government.
Though I guess that the main reason why children would escape from captivity is certainly not to reveal secret information to the government, but rather because they want to go back home!
Whether you are a child or an adult, when you return from captivity you have to report to the government. The returnees are hunted by the governamental forces that want all information.
You have spent 21 years in the bush. Did you become professional a soldier during this time?
Of course. When you spend so many years in the bush you become a professional. I became military director.
What do the LRA rebels fight for?
The LRA are fighting in order to achieve peace and wealth. We fight to have a peaceful coexistence. LRA are fully aware that the government is well off. People here in Gulu are poor. LRA wants the same wealth and stability that the government enjoys. Indeed, if LRA comes to power today, for sure there will be somebody else challenging them. That’s how things work.
Isn’t there another way to achieve peace and wealth a part from war?
A part from war, peace can come through the peace talks. Like us here, around this table. We are discussing peacefully. Acholi have their traditions and the mato oput means reconciliation. We forgive and forget. The government is not willing to talk, they are still hunting the rebels.
After the Juba talks, Kony failed to appear and sign. The unsuccessful operation Lighting Thunder, conducted by Ugandan, Southern Sudanese and Congolese forces to chase Kony, ended up scattering the rebels and pushing them into DR Congo where they killed, maimed, raped and displaced innocent civilians. This seems to suggest that not even the LRA is willing to put guns down. Not so?
When the Ugandan army was chasing Kony, they were the first who went to chase for him. Unsuccessfully. Being a soldier is not easy. The LRA reacted to the governamental troops.
What is Kony’s vision?
Kony needs peace and wealth. He wants better living for his people. He should have power.
But he is using the wrong means to achieve it. By abducting children, for instance, he is hurting his own people!
This war started before Kony. LRA was there under different names before him. There were people fighting at that time. These people went back to the villages. Kony gained power but he could not fight this war alone. That’s why he has to abduct children.
Would you allow the LRA to abduct your children?
It’s not good to come and abduct children. But children are the most active and are full of energies. Of course it is not good because families are concerned. For instance when I came back my parents were already all dead.
Is religion behind the LRA philosophy?
Yes, Christianity is attached to the LRA. When we prayed we really meant it. No matter which religion you belong to, just pray. It helps a lot to bring all soldiers together. The priest helped to reconcile one another.
Did you use the prayers to ask forgiveness when you killed somebody?
When we were going to fight we had to pray in order to save our lives. We prayed of achieving our goal and destroy the enemy.
How did the LRA get the food?
There are ways of getting food. In 1994 communities were contributing and supplying us with food. In Southern Sudan the Arabs would supply us. When the relations between the LRA and Sudan broke down in 2002, we had to find ways of getting the food we needed and if people in villages did not give it spontaneously we would take it by force.
How about the weapons?
Most of the weapons and ammunitions were taken by the UPDF soldiers. When we were fighting we would take the guns of those dead on the battlefield. Otherwise Sudan was supplying us.
After growing up with the rebels, did you start supporting the LRA’s cause, or in the back of your mind there has always been the wish to escape?
I was supporting the LRA cause. But I was hoping to come back one day. We spent a lot of time in Congo and Sudan, but we are neither Congolese nor Sudanese. We are Acholi and our land is here.
How did you escape from the LRA?
Escaping from the LRA is not easy. You cannot leave by saying goodbye. I left during night after a month of planning. When they woke up they realized that I wasn’t there and they looked for me. I was liked by many since I was a chief.
Why did you take this decision after so many years?
We were hoping of returning peacefully all together as a team. But when Oti Vincent – LRA second in command and right-hand man of Kony – who was in charge of the peace talks, was killed by Kony, we realised that the Juba talks were failing and that there was not going to be any peace any time soon. So I left.
How has life been after captivity?
Under amnesty the government had to accept me back. That’s an achievement. The challenges come from our families. My parents died and I don’t know where to start from. As all rebels I chose my wife when I was in captivity and she is here with me and our 5 children. Food is lacking and a place to stay too. On my arrival, I went to the governamental offices. I was brought to Kampala to report. We are asked not to leave Gulu. I don’t want to go back to my villages because that’s the place where I was abducted. The government has not helped ex-combatants to re-integrate. We feel like aliens.
Have you received any support?
Caritas has helped us. They deal with the suffering community. We got to know them during the Juba talks in Ri-Kwangba (Sudan) when Caritas Gulu was in charge of supplying food and medications to the LRA rebels and their families. The government of Sudan and the government of Uganda signed a memorandum of understanding that would allow Caritas Gulu to provide us with help. That’s when I got to know them. Once back in Gulu, Caritas Gulu helped me when I was sick and offered me psychological counselling.
I know that Acholi culture is very rich and you have ceremonies to cleanse people form a past of wrong-doings. Have you ever gone through a traditional Acholi ceremony?
Yes. The paramount chief performed it. We used traditional Acholi ceremonies also in the bush. For instance one day, Kony said we had go and pray. Not in the camp but in the bush. We went with him and we found a sheep. We killed the sheep and sat in a circle. Afterwards we burnt the sheep and elders from LRA took the ashes back to the camp. On the way back Kony said that no one should talk. It happened though that a boy stepped on the foot of another who broke the silence. For six months this boy did not talk. He was just pointing at things. This reveals that it was a very powerful ceremony.
Do you ever have nightmares or memories from the past haunting you?
Nightmares depend on the individuals’ activities. I stayed in captivity for 20 years but I was not driven mad if this is what you ask. You should not think that everyone of us is haunted by the past. It happens that I dream of myself with a gun but that’s normal, I was a soldier.
Do you have any plans for the future?
I want to be settled. I still don’t have a fixed place where to stay, I am roaming.
Do you think that there is ever going to be any stable peace in Northern Uganda?
I think that there is already some peace in Northern Uganda. In many areas people are leaving the IDPs’ camps and go back to the villages.
Do you ever wish you were not abducted?
Yes. I think that if I had not been abducted I would have become somebody. I would have studied and become educated and achieved something in life.
June 28, 2009
The Cairo Trilogy by Naguib Mahfouz
The Cairo Trilogy by Naguib Mahfuz is undoubtably a masterpiece of modern literature. Comparable to the great Russian novels for the complexity of his round-characters, The Cairo Trilogy makes Mahfuz the best Egyptian novelist, able to unveil the secrets and contradiction of the Egyptian society.
Divided into three books – Palace Walk, Palace of Desire and Sugar Street – the trilogy covers the period form 1917 to 1944. It is a three-part family saga centred around the patriarchal figure of al-Sayyid Ahmad Abd al-Jawad and his family – his wife Amina, his children (three sons – Yasin, Fahmy and Kamal – and two daughters, Khadija and Aisha), and eventually his grandchildren.
Al-Sayyid Ahmad Abd al-Jawad is respected both by his family – that actually fears him – as well as by his friends. In his house, he is a very strict man, a devout believer and dictates the rules that apply indiscriminately to his wife and children. Outside, Al-Sayyid Ahmad shows a completely different personalty: he enjoys wine, women and the company of his friends with whom he spends every evening of the week. He is a shopkeeper known in Cairo’s old neighbourhoods for his generosity and honesty. He spends most of his days in the shop, returning home only for lunch and a siesta. Faithful to his routine, he would leave the house again in the afternoon to re-appear only at midnight when he finds Amina waiting for him on top of the stairs, holding a lamp in her hand to light her husband way to his room. Then, Amina would wash his feet in silence, talking only if she is asked to and mainly to share the happenings of the day, choosing the words prudently to avoid enraging her master/husband. Eventually, she would help him to undress and after folding his cloths on the chair, she would finally retire to her bedroom.
Amina is a relentless woman and the soul of the house. The first one to start the day, after performing the ablution she wakes up the maid and the children, bringing Palace Walk back to its livelty again.
Amina married at the age of 14 and she has been serving her husband dutifully since then, running the big house in Palace Walk impeccably. Adored by her children to whom she is a loving and indulgent mother, Amina spends her days within the four walls of the three-storey building, since al-Sayyid Ahmad never allows his wife and daughters to leave the premises. The women of Palace Walk see the world from the openings of the cage of latticework on the balcony, from where they look at the street vendors and admire the tops of the minarets. Occasionally, when Amina is permitted to visit her mother, al-Sayyid Ahmad would escort his wife travelling together in a carriage from where Amina would only catch glimpses of the outside world. The two daughters Khadija and Aisha show very different personalities, but each of them nurture respect and utter obedience to their father and give in to their status, which include no education beyond primary school and fulfilment of women’s duties such as devotion to the family and marriage.
Amina and al- Sayyid Ahmad remain the main figures throughout the trilogy. Over time, however, changes happen in the relationship between the two, and the sickness and weakness of the aging husband allow Amina the freedom she never enjoyed before: periodically, she walks the streets of Cairo alone to visit the children and grandchildren who live in Palace of Desire and Sugar Street, while everyday she goes praying for her husband health, visiting the mosques whose minarets were the only thing that for decades Amina was able to see from the limitedness of her balcony.
“I bet our family’s four centuries behind the times,” complains Ahmad – one of the grandchildren in the third volume Sugar Street – referring to the patriarch. Actually, al-Sayyid Ahmad’s family model is fairly old-fashion. Some of the most interesting aspects of the trilogy are the domestic and national transitions and how al-Sayyid Ahmad’s second and third generation adapt and refuse the changes going on.
Dealing with such a patriarch is not easy, but despite the fear of disappointing the father, the sons decide for themselves. Each one of them has a unique personality and as soon as they grow up the patriarch realizes that he is loosing the grip over them and cannot but witness powerlessly to their evolution. Alienated by their choices, al-Sayyid Ahmad fails to understand and fully accept the profound changes that his family, Egypt and Islam are going through.
It seems, however, that the patriarch’s children are somehow trapped by the culture and lifestyle they have been brought up in and eventually remain on the threshold of the new era. Kamal, the youngest of al-Sayyid Ahmad’s children, in a beautiful passage of the trilogy, says referring to Amina: ”Ignorance is your crime, ignorance … ignorance … ignorance. My father’s the manifestation of ignorant harshness and you of ignorant tenderness. As long as I live, I’ll remain the victim of the two opposites.” In fact, only al- Sayyid Ahmad’s grandchildren will manage to step into the new era and surf the wave of changes to the apex.
Sugar Street marks the climactic end of the trilogy. Readers see through the eyes of the grandchildren who give shape to modern Egypt. Ahmad is a communist activist, his brother Abd al-Muni’m is a Muslim fundamentalist, and their cousin Ridwan, the only inheritor of the charm and beauty of his father and grandfather, starts a distinguished political career helped by a homosexual affair with a prominent politician.
For the non-Arab readers, the english translation of The Cairo Trilogy by William Maynard Hutchins and Olive E. Kenny manges to convey the richness of the story, characters and language. The souciness of the dialogues and the wit of the protagonists never fail to entertain the reader, while the liveliness of the time frame in which the trilogy is set offer room for reflection on the history of modern Egypt, confirming Naguib Mahfouz as one of the best writers of modern times.
June 19, 2009
TO WHOM IT ‘MUST’ CONCERN: WAVE OF CLANDESTINE ARRESTS HIT THE ACHOLI PEOPLE. AGAIN.
Gulu, Uganda – Despite 22 years of war are coming to an end in Northern Uganda, it seems that security is still precarious in the Acholi region. HUMAN RIGHTS FOCUS (HURIFO) – a Ugandan NGO based in Gulu – has recently made public the news of a new wave of arrest-cum-abduction claimed to be perpetrated by plain clothed gun wielding persons who are widely believed to belong to the Chieftaincy of Military Intelligence (C.M.I).
The targets seem to be predominantly former LRA combatants. After many of them were abducted when still young children and forced to fight for many years, many LRA fighters have been allowed to return home under amnesty. Besides the challenges of the re-integration process, ex-LRA soldiers are now fearing to fall victims to the recent wave of yet unjustified abductions.
It was the 1st of June 2009, 7:50 am. Otim was riding his bicycle, heading to school where he attended the 2nd year of motor vehicle mechanic training at the Comboni Vocational Institute in Gulu. He never reached the destination. Several eyewitnesses testified afterwards what had happened. Reportedly, a light-blue UAG appeared, and two men jumped off the vehicle. While one was pointing a gun against Otim, the other held an AK 47. After forcing Otim into the car, they disappeared. Since that tragic day none of Otim’s relatives has received any news. Otim’s reasons for arrests as wells as his whereabouts are not yet known.
Otim’s arrest and abduction is neither the first nor the last. During the past weeks, six people have been arrested in a similar way. Except for a journalist, Patrick Otim abducted in Pader, the other five victims are believed to be ex-LRA combatants.
James A.A. Otto, executive director of HURIFO, issued a press release published on the Daily Monitor on Monday, June 15, where on behalf of HURIFO he publicly and officially asked the Government of Uganda to produce the arrested people in courts, or to be sued.
Interestingly enough, Milton Odong, the deputy Resident District Commissioner of Gulu – appointed to represent the government – instead of reading the press statement by HURIFO as an appeal to safeguard the rights of citizens – no matter whether liable or not (the court should decide!) – Odong calls for investigations into HURIFO, accusing the established and respected NGO of ”defending and working for the interest of subversive elements in the disguise of fighting for people’s rights”. Mr Odong claims that the people detained few-know-where were actually arrested because ”they have been regrouping themselves to wage war in the North”. However, even if Mr Odong proves to be correct – and only a court and a trial can determine it – HURIFO has simply asked the President Museveni as the head of Government to make sure that justice is done. Article 23 of the Uganda Constitution 1995 explicitly protects the rights of any person arrested, restricted or detained, rights that have been repeatedly violated with these recent abductions. The Uganda Constitution says: the whereabouts of any person arrested has to be authorised by law; the person and subsequently his relatives have to be informed of the reasons for the arrest; and whether the person is brought to court or released, any of these must happen within 48 hours from the time of arrest.
All these above mentioned clauses of the article 23 of the Uganda Constitution have not been respected. The security of every citizens is protected by different structures such as the Local Councils, the police DISO, UPDF and the District Security chaired by the RDC. Since none of these organs seem to have successfully managed (or tried?) to protect the rights of Otim and the other five Ugandan citizens abducted, HURIFO – as the organization in place to protect the rights of Ugandans – has applied to the Government, requiring a prompt intervention.
The press realease by HURIFO published on the Daily Monitor on Monday, June 15, reads:
“Whereas the laws of Uganda provide for arrest by any individual which individuals could also include persons from CMI, the Constitutional provision allowing this has not been followed in effecting the illegal arrests.
Article 23 of Uganda Constitution of 1995 has comprehensively provided for arrests:
Clause 2 of Uganda Constitution of 1995 provides (…) a person arrested, restricted or detained shall be kept in a place authorised by law.
Clause 3 of Uganda Constitution of 1995 provides (…) a person arrested, restriced or detained shall be informed immediately in a language that the person understands, of the reason for the arrest, restriction or detention of his or her rights to a lawyer of his or her choice
Clause 4(b) of Uganda Constitution of 1995 provides (…) A person arrested or detained (…) shall if not earlier relased, be brought to court as soon as possible in any case not later than 48 hours from the time of his or her arrest.
Clause 5 of Uganda Constitution of 1995 provides (…) Where a person is arrested or detained:
a) the next of kin of that person shall, at the request of that person, be informed as soon as practicable of the restriction or detention;
b) the next of kin, lawyer and personal doctor of that person, shall be allowed reasonable access to that person (…)
In effecting the arrests and the subsequent detention, now te subject of this press release, none of the Constitutional provisions guaranteeing the full enjoyment of the fundamental rights of the victims have been followed. Another matter of grave concern is the pattern that seems to target mainly former LRA combatants and manner of arrest that eyewitnesses describe as very brutal.
A legitimate government that President Yoweri Museveni NRM leads, should desist from involvement in clandestine activities like these arrests which smack sinister motives, and have its acts done in the open and indeed in a transparent manner. These include effecting arrest by adhering to the laws of arrest and holding the suspects in places f detention authorised by law. Information to the suspects as well as next-of-kin has to be done as of rights rather than privilege.
The bitter truth is that (…) it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to convince the afflicted community in the Acholi Sub-region that the state through its security arms, CMI inclusive, has no hand in this wave of arrests and incommunicado detentions. We could advance another side of the debate by assuming that the arrests were by unknown gun men. It would still beg a bigger question of protection than the state can provide plausible response to.
If these were truly unknown gun men:
how could they abduct six people from diverse places of Kampala, Pader and Gulu, and yet get away it, beating all the security rings around an individual citizen? (The security rings around the citizens include: all structures of Local Councils; the police DISO, UPDF itself, and the District Security chaired by a whole Resident District Commissioner as the President’s representative)
why should members of these security rings allow the so called unknown gunmen have a field day by trampling on the rights of citizens just recovering form a gruesome war (…) and get away with it?
The people of Acholi Sub-region should be given a break that they deserve. Similarly, the ex-LRA combatants should and must be given a break that they badly need in order to facilitate the expeditious re-integration into civilian lives in the very community that has since forgiven them.
In conclusion, we wish to laud an appeal to President Yoweri Museveni as the command in chief of Uganda Peoples Defence Forces:
To constitute an independent Judicial Commission to carry out a full scale inquiries into the new wave of illegal arrest that has since engulfed the Acholi Sub-region (…) and make its report public as a larger part of confidence building measures (…)
To cause the security apparatus currently holding these suspects to either unconditionally free them or take them before a competent court of law and prefer charges against them if at all
To ensure that the gains that Uganda has since made in the of Human Rights during the NRM rule should not be negated by the callous illegal acts the subject of this press statement
To allay the fears of the relatives that the victims are not under severe torture both mental and physical
To allay the fears of the population of Acholi Sub-region whose lives and hopes for a lasting peace are now characterised by fear, despair, despondency and privation, as this new wave of insecurity manifested in the unwarranted arrest take heavily toll without an end in sight
To ally the fears now rampant among the ex-LRA combatants who are trying to forget the past abductions in the hands of LRA commanders are now again involuntary forced to re-live their traumatic experience while back.”
June 11, 2009
BUNYONYI: LAKE OF LEGENDS
Originated by volcanoes’ eruptions, Lake Bunyonyi can enchant you with its charming nature and spellbinding stories. It is a place to calm the mind and find peace among waveless waters and bygone lifestyles.
by Claudia Giampietri
Article published on the issue 29 of African Woman
http://www.africanwomanmagazine.net/
Reaching Lake Bunyonyi from Kamapala is quite a trip. The lake lies in the south-western part of Uganda on the border with Rwanda and D.R. Congo. Although some tourists’ guides suggest that Kabale, the closest town to the lake, is six hours by car from Kampala, I doubt the claim. You could make it in six hours of non-stop driving, only if you hit the road before sunrise to avoid the traffic out of town, overtake all the trucks and lorries, manage to control the inevitable call of nature, and ignore the policemen who, placed in strategic spots, readily point the speedometer at your car and look at your helpless face with an ironic expression which says: ”Gotcha!”
We made it in nine hours, with a stopover at the equator for a coffee, and our speed slowed down by trucks, potholes, and police officers. We reached Kabale on a Thursday afternoon and once branched off shortly after the town center, the lake suddenly appears from behind one of the numerous hills. Beautiful hilly islands covered with a lush vegetation are scattered over the surface of the waveless lake. A dirt road skirts the lake, and eco-friendly resorts follow one after the other, offering accommodations for different budgets. We headed to the Bunyonyi Overland Resort which seemed to be quite busy and lively at our arrival. Guests can be accommodated in cottages and rooms but we opted for the furnished tents, all supplied with electricity, and mounted on raised platforms each with it’s own terrace and romantic views over the lake. A lovely dinner with fresh crayfish in lemon sauce and mashed potatoes was followed by few drinks sipped while sitting around the huge lakefront campfire. The lake’s high altitude – nearly 2000 meters – makes it is rather cold and the warmth emanated from the fire is even more enjoyable after sunset. This area is known for its atypical African temperatures, yet the most welcome effect of the chilly weather is the virtual absence of mosquitos.
On the second day, staff members dished out coffee, French toasts and interesting information about the activities and the history of the area populated by the Bakiga, known in Uganda to be the tough and hard working people, something they were clearly very proud of. In Rukiga – the Bakiga’s language – the word bunyonyi means ‘the place of many little birds’ and with over 200 birds species, no wonder why bird-watching is one of the main touristic attractions. Apparently, Lake Bunyonyi owes its existence to a volcanic eruption that blocked a river exit less than ten thousand years ago. The volcanos responsible for its formation loom on the horizon on the border with Rwanda and D.R. Congo and watch at the lake from a distance. Already gifted with an amazing nature, Bunyonyi was made even more attractive by its inhabitants who created space for agriculture cutting down part of the woods. As a result the lake is surrounded by terraced and neatly cultivated hillsides that have made the area known as the ‘little Switzerland of Africa’. Rumor has it that the lake reaches a depth of approximately 900 metres. Though this information is often contested, if it is true Bunyonyi would be the second deepest lake in the continent. Being free of bilharzia and safe from hippos and crocodiles, Lake Bunyonyi is surely one of the friendliest body of water in the continent.
There are 29 islands on the lake and canoeing is a must-do activity and the best way to explore them and discover the history and legends that make them famous. Left the mainland, we gently paddled on sluggish waters while we met other canoes, some filled with people and goods, others with students, that are travelling fast to reach markets, schools, or home.
We headed to Bushara island where a utterly ecological campsite would give us shelter for the remaining days. On the way, we passed by Akampene or ‘Punishment Island’, a tiny strip of land surrounded by water, probably the island with the saddest story. It seems that until the end of the nineteenth century, members of the Bakiga tribe used to abandon girls who became pregnant out of wedlock. At that time swimming skills were rare and those who tried to reach the mainland drowned. The island is treeless and deprived of any source of food. In fact, girls would die from hunger unless the Bakiga’s men unable to afford the bride price decided to take them as wives, saving them from their fate.
Another island visible from Akampene is Bwama or Sharp’s Island which is rather big and covered with bright green vegetation. It was named after Dr. Leonard Sharp, a scottish missionary who established a leprosy centre on the island in 1931. At that time there were no medications available and the goal of Dr. Sharp was to isolate the suspected cases to stop the disease from spreading. The then uninhabited Bwama island seemed to be perfectly suitable for the purpose and thousands of people were sent from all over East Africa. When in the 1980s the drug for leprosy was issued, patients were allowed to leave. The building of the hospital was then turned into a boarding school which nowadays attracts students from the entire region.
While canoeing the last bit which separaes us from the landing dock of Bushara island, our guide tells us the incredible story of Bucuranuka, ‘Upside Down Island’. The legend says that a group of men chased away a woman after mistaking her for a beggar. The old lady, offended and deluded, left the island which soon afterwards turned upside down killing the imprudent victims.
Skeptical and amused we finally approached Bushara, home of Lake Bunyonyi Development Company. The activities organized on the island and the money generated by the accommodations at the campsite are used for sustainable development projects around the lake. Once reached the dock, the staff welcomed us warmly and we started climbing the hill following a trail among an impressive eucalyptus forest which covers the entire island and fills the air with fragrance.
The accommodation on Bushara is essential. Furnished tents and cottages are located along the perimeter of the lake, while the restaurant is on top of the hill. On Bushara there is no electricity or running water, though buckets of cold and hot water are supplied by the stuff on request. It is probably its essential simplicity that makes Bushara campsite quite attractive to visitors who can enjoy days with a different tempo, a bygone rhythm that modern lifestyles and facilities have eroded.
As soon as the sun disappears behind the hills, local staff starts lighting the campfire. Lanters are placed on the tables where guests are served simple and unpretentious food. Far away from the lights of the city, the night at the lake is pitch dark and the sky is one of the most stunning and starry I have ever seen, with constellations visible with the naked eye.
Something you shouldn’t miss, besides swimming in the cold but friendly waters and getting lost in the eucalyptus forest, is a visit to the Kyevu market on the shores close to the Rwandan border. Reachable in a couple of hours with a motor boat and a fairly easy hike it is not really worth for the merchandise sold – though nicely decorated pots and cloths can be tempting – but rather for the parade of canoes approaching the shores and the spectacle of hundreds of people busy selling their wares while other hundreds are busy picking, bargaining and buying.
We left the lake on the fourth day after psyching ourselves for the long trip back. Lake Bunyonyi, with its an enchanting nature, its legends and fascinating stories able intrigue curious travellers, is a place worth a thousand of visits.
March 14, 2009
JANE FRANCES KUKA, DEFENDING WOMEN AGAINST MUTILATION
Twice minister of State and personal secretary of the President Museveni, Jane Frances Kuka has campaigned to eliminate female genital mutilation from her tribe and devoted her life to the cause of women rights.
By Claudia Giampietri
Feature published on the issue 27 of African Woman. Check the magazine online at: http://www.africanwomanmagazine.net/
Honorable Jane Frances Kuka welcomes me in the living room of her house at the feet of Mount Elgon in Kapchorwa district. We sit on the couch while she pours out two glasses of apple juice and I get ready to listen to her story, the drama of a girl who escaped female genital mutilation and became a prominent politician determined to eradicate the thousand-year harmful practice of female circumcision from her tribe.
Jane Kuka is convalescent after a car accident that happened few weeks ago. The car turned three times and she wonders how she can be still alive. She suffered from minor injuries and her voice is often interrupted by bothersome coughs which cause pain in her chest, but nothing can prevent this relentless lady to speak about the rights of the Sabiny women.
Honorable Kuka belongs to the Sabiny tribe which inhabits the south-eastern part of Uganda and is one of the few ethnic groups in the country to practice female genital cutting. Twice elected minister and personal secretary of President Museveni, Jane Kuka has travelled around the world and involved international organizations in the fight against female genital mutilation in her region. Since July 2008 she is Resident District Commissioner in Kapchorwa. ”When I was officially appointed, I received a letter from the President who asked me to go back to Kapchorwa and make sure that circumcision dies. This is my commitment, the mission in my life,” Kuka states with a clear and firm voice.
Fifty years have passed since Jane, a young girl of six, witnessed her older friends undergoing circumcision. ”I saw the circumciser cutting the clitoris of my friends. I remember there was a lot of blood and I ran away.” This traumatic event, followed by the confessions of her grandmother who explained without preamble the permanent harms of the genital cutting, convinced Jane Kuka that the unchallenged practice passed through generations was harmful and demeaning to women. ”I knew from that moment that I would have done everything to avoid it.”
Among the Sabiny tribe, female genital mutilation is considered a rite of passage, an initiation ceremony that leads a young girl into womanhood. ”Through the ceremony a girl becomes a woman and is recognised as such by the community. It is a painful step into adulthood,” Kuka explains. An uncircumcised lady is believed to be immature and cannot perform activities like milking cows, climbing a granary, but also speaking in public, marrying and having children.
”This should have been my fate since I escaped the rite. But despite the cultural restrictions I managed to graduate as a teacher and also married a man from my tribe! When my husband proposed to me I put three conditions: I asked him to support me, defend me from female genital mutilation, and help me in raising our children so that I could pursue further studies and my career,” Hon. Kuka recalls, and smiles with tenderness adding that he has never failed to stand by her.
Kuka’s genius for tact and diplomacy helped her to dodge circumcision by convincing some intransigent members of the community that she was simply procrastinating it. However, after graduating from Makerere University, Kuka was promoted to principal and head of the department of a training college and inevitably, the influential council of the elders found unacceptable that an uncircumcised ‘girl’ was made head of a college. They intensified the pressure and started accusing her of contaminating the students’ minds with revolutionary ideas which were causing the destruction of the Sabiny culture. Jane Kuka admits frankly that the accusations were partly true: ”I have always spoken against female circumcision and I strongly believed that the practice needed to be abandoned. I am also convinced that female genital mutilation is not the only cultural aspect that defines us as Sabiny. Our identity can be kept alive but we cannot allow culture to prevail over human rights.”
In response to Kuka’s unorthodox views, the council passed a law which made female genital cutting compulsory. ”It was 1988 when this outrageous law was approved and I decided to take action,” she states vehemently. She rushed to Kampala and knocked at the door of the then minister of gender and cultural affairs explaining her the gravity of the situation in Kapchorwa. ”The minister was a woman and listened to what I had to say. After consulting with the president, she was given an helicopter to rescue the women of Kapchorwa,” Kuka says with her voice interrupted by coughs and laughters at the memory of the dumbstruck faces of the members of the community at the sight of the minister on the governmental helicopter sent to save the Sabiny women forced into circumcision.
”The minister went to Kapchorwa with two doctors who talked to the community describing the risks and the psycho-physical damages of the female cutting. As a result the law was revised and circumcision was made optional.” For Jane Kuka this was a great success: the impressive feat granted her the respect of her people and marked the beginning of her career in politics.
After several attempts, in 1996 Kuka became Minister of State for gender and cultural affairs and the crusade against female genital mutilation started officially. ”My goal was to promote women emancipation and equality of the sexes.” Kuka travelled to different countries where she attended press conferences and invited international organizations to support her campaign for the rights of the Sabiny women. ”I think that media in Africa have the responsibility to spotlight the issue of female circumcision, and also education plays a crucial role in helping young generations to open their minds.” Jane Kuka believes that girls must be given the opportunity to work in order to achieve economic independence. ”Only when a woman realises her potentials and is granted the right to study and work she can call herself emancipated from the family or the husband on whom, otherwise, she would depend completely.”
Since the the campaign against female genital mutilation was launched the number of women circumcised in Kapchorwa region dropped dramatically while the number of girls going to school increased. However, the picture is rather complex and emancipating women is only part of the solution. Among the key-figures who play a role in the practice of the female cutting are the circumciser and the mentor, who are payed by the families to perform the rite. When the fight against circumcision started, both circumcisers and mentors saw their incomes slowly being decimated by the lack of girls to circumcise, and as a consequence many of them fell into the spiral of extreme poverty. This is one of the biggest challenges that the organizations working to eradicate female mutilation have to face. ”Another big challenge is related to the cultural implications of circumcision regarded as the initiation into womanhood. The campaign against the practice has deprived the community of a fundamental moment that used to mark a woman’s life.” For this reason, Jane Kuka along with other individuals and institutions are trying to introduce an alternative rite of passage which seems to be a viable option to celebrate the beginning of a girl’s adult life.
Despite all the debates, lobbying and campaigns against female genital mutilation, it is unlikely that Jane Frances Kuka managed to convince every single member of her tribe to abandon the practice; rather, it is more likely that she managed to make her hardcore opponents doubt and has certainly given hope to the new generations. After her many achievements, Hon. Kuka looks back with contentment. There is no nostalgia in her expression, only the determination to keep on and do more. The secrets of her success are her strength and courage, and the conviction that alone she would have never managed to reach the altitudes where she is now flying. She is grateful to her parents who protected her when she was defenceless, to her husband and children who have always been understanding, and to all those who supported her strive for justice. Dreams for the future? ”I am open to new challenges. I wish I could become the defensor of women rights in the whole eastern Africa.” Since ‘Kuka recipe’ worked for her people it may well be successful elsewhere.
KNOW MORE…
What is FGM?
FGM is practiced in many parts of Africa, Asia and the Middle East. It involves the partial or total removal of the external female genitalia for cultural and non-medical reasons. It is estimated that 100/140 million women have undergone FGM and more than 3 million girls between 4 and 14 years old are at risk every year.
The complications of FGM include traumas, pain, haemorrhage, infections, risk of cysts and fistulae, HIV/AIDS, incontinence, formation of painful scars and infertility. Many circumcised women report the total loss of libido. FGM is mainly a cultural practice and is seen as initiation into womanhood, a prerequisite for marriage, but also a mean to control women sexually among other reasons.
Laws against Female Genital Mutialtion (FGM)
In East Africa only in Kenya and Tanzania FGM is banned by law, while in Sudan only the most severe forms are forbidden. Uganda is now in the process of passing a law which criminalises FGM. The Bill has been recently drafted and is under revision. FGM in Uganda is most prevalent in Kapchorwa, Bukwo and parts of Karamoja. There are other instruments like the international conventions and declarations which make provisions for the protection of women rights. The most widely known are: Universal Declaration of Human rights (1948); International Covenants on Civil and Political Rights (1966); Convention on the Elimination of All Forms of Discrimination against Women (1979); Platform for Action of the Fourth World Conference on Women (1995); African Charter on Human and Peoples’ Rights (1997).
© Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri, 2007 – 2010. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
March 14, 2009
JANE FRANCES KUKA “Cosi’ convinco l’Africa ad abbandonare il rito della mutilazione sessuale”
Articolo pubblicato sull’Unità di Venerdi’ 13 marzo 2009
Visibile online su:
http://archivio.unita.it/v2/carta/today.asp?data=20090313&npagediz=22%24NAZIONALE
http://archivio.unita.it/v2/carta/today.asp?data=20090313&npagediz=23%24NAZIONALE
March 13, 2009
THE SAND AND RUINS OF BAGAMOYO
Travel feature printed on the issue 27 of African Woman . Check the magazine online at:
http://www.africanwomanmagazine.net/
When you travel, whether you are a last-minute planner or you book everything in advance, let yourself be surprised by the unforeseen. Our visit to Bagamoyo ended in a sailing trip towards a spectacular enchanted island.
By Claudia Giampietri
It’s Saturday morning. After a week of work in Dar Es Salaam, instead of heading to the airport to fly back to Kampala, my husband and I decide to join a couple of friends and go to the seaside. We are always prepared for these last-minute changes of plan and the swimsuits are packed. We rush to the taxi station where we meet with our friends Claudia and Harald and wait for the local public transport, the ‘dala-dala’ known as ‘matatu’ in Uganda.
We are heading north, towards the historical town of Bagamoyo and after a relatively smooth ride which lasted less than an hour and costed us the modest price of 3200 Tanzanian shillings we reach destination. As everybody is tossed out of the vehicle we are overwhelmed by the uninterrupted voices of the drivers who compete to offer the best price to take us to our hotel, the Travellers Lodge. We disappoint them deciding to walk and spend the afternoon visiting the town following our map.
Exploring Bagamoyo is like travelling back in time, to the flourishing but partly inglorious period when Arab and Indian traders were shipping ivory, copra and slaves from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar using dhows, or when the German Empire colonized the area and the first Christian missionaries were stepping on the East African soil. The history of this small town is eventful and in the 19th century Bagamoyo left its status of insignificant fishermen village to become the most important trading centre of eastern Africa. Strolling around the town we come across decaying European style buildings fallen victims to the coastal humid climate and its corrosive effects. In 1886, Bagamoyo became the headquarters of German East Africa and the Boma was the German governor’s residence, an impressive two-storey building constructed in a U shape. Close to the Boma there is also a German graveyard for German soldiers and an old fort. Walking north we find the Roman Catholic Church built in 1868 which is said to be the first one erected in East and Central Africa. Next to this building there is the old church tower named Livingstone Tower. Apparently, the dead body of the Scottish explorer David Livingstone was brought here by porters after a journey of 1500 kilometers from the town of Ujiji in western Tanzania before being taken back to England. Bagamoyo is small and apart from the Kaole, ruins of mosques and tombs dating back to the 13th century and located 5 km south of the city, most of the buildings and attractions are concentrated in the Old Town which extends along the coast.
Exhausted from the sun we decide to head to our hotel and go for a swim. Our en-suite cottages at the Travellers Lodge are big, airy and nicely decorated. They are equipped with ceiling fans and air-conditioning, and a generous shaded veranda with deck chairs which faces the ocean. For security reasons there is a bamboo fence which separates the hotel’s area from the beach but luckily it doesn’t obstruct the view.
We hasten to wear our swimsuits and run to the end of the fence where a gate allows the access to the shore. Claudia and Harald join us and we speed up while the feet sink into the soft and white sand and finally reach the sea. The expressions of excitement on our faces change at the sight of the water which is shallow and a bit cloudy. We expected the inviting colours of the Indian Ocean but it seems that we have to content ourselves. Anyway, we enjoy a short bath and once back to the shore we walk along the seaside and admire the dhows coming back from a day of sailing and fishing. The beach is soon crowded with fishermen busy checking their nets or fixing the sails. From the seafront we can see the straw roofs of our cottages surrounded by palm trees that fit perfectly with the environment making the Travellers Lodge the nicest hotel in the area.
We relax sitting in the shadow of a tree and try to come up with an idea for the next day when a couple of fishermen become interested in our conversation. One of them, Issa, speaks a very good english and is eager to take us for a boat trip towards a deserted sandbank, Mbwakuni, that emerges with the low tide and is surrounded by the most beautiful water. Realizing our only concern, Issa reassures us that he will provide a shelter to protect us from the unforgiving sun. Tempted by the promise of paradise we start bargaining the price and since we will use a wooden fisherman boat powered by an engine we agree for 100 USD – fuel included.
As the sun disappears behind us, we go back to our cottages and get ready for dinner which is served in the open-plan restaurant with thatched roof and Makonde-wood carvings. The menu offers a nice variety of fish and meat, and the food is fresh and nicely prepared. Well-chosen background music creates a nice atmosphere made especially romantic by a suggestive full moon.
Temperatures slightly drop during night time allowing us a good night’s sleep.
Sunday starts with a delicious buffet breakfast and at eight we meet Issa on the seashore. Everything is organized – shelter, water, food and snorkelling equipment – and an aged captain and his young mariner are ready to leave. The sandbank is roughly an hour from the coast sailing towards Zanzibar along the same routes that two centuries ago traders navigated shipping slaves. Issa recounts those dark sides of history and explains that the word Bagamoyo comes from a Kiswahili expression which means ‘lay down you heart’ also translated as ‘give up your hopes’ referring to the slaves forced to abandon their home country and freedom forever.
The voice of Issa recalling the history of these places accompanies us during our trip until in the distance we sight Mbwakuni. No doubt, it is heaven! We reach the shore and unload our stuff from the boat. The whiteness of the sand is nearly blinding and contrasts with the clear blue sky. The water is warm, transparent and has all the shades of green and light blue. We walk to the highest point of the sandbank just few meters above the sea level and we stand there in amazement. The island extends in its length for approximately 500 meters and we cannot see anything but the ocean around us. We help our guide and captain to fix the shelter: a big piece of rectangular iute, open to the sides and supported by sticks. We all feel like Robinson Crusoe and decide to catch a fish and grill it for lunch. Equipped with flippers, masks and snorkels we start searching but I am soon overwhelmed by the wonder of the submerged world and forget about fishing. I enjoy swimming along the coral reef, explore small caves where I encounter octopuses and different types of clownfish. I easily manage to avoid a few jellyfishes that move undisturbed following the currents and spot the biggest sea stars I have ever seen and beautiful uninhabited shells laying on the seabed. Thanks to the flippers, I cover quite some distance and lose the sense of time completely until finally, I drag myself out of the water and reach the group who is sheltering and having a snack after a rather unsuccessful fishing expedition.
Time is flying and the tide is changing. Part of the island which was visible when we arrived is already covered with water and we just wait until the last minute to jump onto the boat before the ocean swallows the last grain of sand.
We sail back to Bagamoyo feeling tired and baked by the sun but immensely grateful to Issa and the crew who made us discover the magic of this enchanted island.
We just have the time for a shower and a short rest before being on our way back to Kampala and ready to start a new week completely energized by the charming power of nature.
USEFUL CONTACTS
Accommodation
In Bagamoyo you will find a great number of hotels for different budgets and tastes. The Travellers Lodge is a middle-range accommodation with an excellent value for money
Visit www.bagamoyo.com/travellers-lodge/english/frame.htm or call 00255744855485
Sailing to the Mbwakuni
Contact Issa – mobile: 00255785799397 – and he will organize the boat trip to the sandbank
© Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri, 2007 – 2010. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
February 15, 2009
ITALY’S HIDDEN BEAUTIES
*travel feature published in issue 26, African Woman. Check the magazine online at: http://www.africanwomanmagazine.net/
Beyond the glamour of Rome, the crowds on the Adriatic Sea, and the tourist-besieged Tuscany, lies an Italy off the beaten track. The Ligurian region is the ideal destination for a romantic escape.
By Claudia Giampietri
My husband and I decide to run away from the hurly-burly of our family’s home to find refugee in the quietness and charm of Portovenere and the Cinque Terre on the Ligurian coast. The Cinque Terre – which literally means Five Lands – are located in the north-western part of Italy, only two hours far from Milan, a fair distance which allows us to make the best of our three-day escape.
Once left the motorway from Milan, the dark blue Mediterranean sea becomes visible on the horizon. Forest covered mountains overshadow the road which suddenly opens into a breathtaking panorama, and in the distance we can see the colourful houses of Portovenere. We reach the hotel Il Genio, a round-shaped building with bougainvilleas and ivies located in the main square which is a good starting point to explore the town. Luckily, our hotel has a car park that prevents us from paying the exorbitant prices of other parking lots.
After the check in we put on our swimsuits and are out again. Portovenere is a small town built on a rocky strip of land partially surrounded by the sea. It is a town of fishermen and its name means Venus’ port. The name derives from a temple built on a rock overhanging the sea at the far end of the village dedicated to Venus during Roman times, and later consecrated into the beautiful gothic church of St. Peter. Venus was the Roman goddess of love, and nowadays, she is still regarded as a symbol of love, beauty, and fertility all over the world.
Our first destination cannot but be the once upon a time Venus’ temple. Walking through the town we discover tiny alleys, passageways and endless small shops—some no larger than a closet— boutiques where you can find souvenirs, cafés and restaurants aplenty where you are served excellent local food. Each house has a distinctive colour, and buildings are rather high and compact because of the peculiarity of this region characterized by steep mountains and virtually no flat areas.
The pedestrian alley opens into a big square with the pavement made of dark slippery stones. The church of St. Peter is right in front of us. There is a terrace on top of the church where we admire the astonishing landscape. The medieval Doria castle on our left dominates the village that offers a charming maze of buildings. The inhabited Palmaria island is just few hundred meters away from the mainland on our right, and white rugged cliffs jut out both from our left and right sides. Some brave local boys climb one of the highest peak and dare a plunge from 25 meters. Not far away, a group of people gets ready for SCUBA diving in a place known as Byron’s grotto. Apparently, the english poets Byron and Shelley found inspiration from the landscapes of this region where they both spent some years of their lives. According to the legend, the poet Byron used to swim from the grotto all the way across the gulf (known as the Poets’ Gulf) to visit his friend Shelley – or maybe Shelley`s wife, as the malicious gossip suggests.
We decide to take a dip in the Byron’s grotto where the water is transparent and the sea has all the shades of blue and green. The sun beats down mercilessly and despite the sea breeze the summer temperatures are very high. We spend the day swimming and sunbathing, and only after being baked enough in the heat we go back to the hotel for a recovering shower.
The smell of food coming from the restaurants whets our appetites. We dress up for dinner, picking smart cloths from our luggage. Italians are worldwide known to be very stylish and we want to fit the bill. We stroll around hunting for a restaurant, and we easily find our preferred one. Miramare is a small cozy place with a refined local cuisine based on fresh seafood. Our table is in a gorgeous open air terrace with a panoramic view on the port where luxurious yachts are moored to the pier along with small fishing boats. We dine by candlelight, and the lights from the coast brighten the dark moonless night creating a most romantic atmosphere.
For our second day we plan to walk all the way through the five villages that constitute the Five Lands, and spend the night in Monterosso, the last village of the Five Lands’ National Park. The path starts from behind the medieval Doria castle in Portovenere and lasts for about six hours. The territory of the Five Lands, which extends for 40 km, became popular with backpackers in the 1970s and since 1997 is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We indulge in an extra croissant for breakfast, and start our adventure. Standing at the beginning of the footpath we stare in amazement at the long way up. I wonder whether we are brave or foolish, but my husband looks very excited about the prospect of a full day hiking. Soon after starting the walk, the idea of being rather foolish materialises. My heartbeats increase steadily, my cheeks are red as ripe cherries, and I am panting at every step I take. The terrain is steep and rocky, but at least the sun is hidden by veils of cloud and the breeze which comes from the sea provides temporary relief.
Hikers often say that the efforts made to climb up are rewarded with the amazing view from the peak and, I must say, they are right. We have managed to hike the first bit and the panorama from up here is awesome. We can see Portovenere from on high, and the big yachts that were moored to the pier are now sailing along the coast beneath us looking very small from this height. The villages of the Five Lands are now visible, though there is still a long way to go.
We pass through beautiful forests with typical Mediterranean vegetation. The terraced mountainsides have been cultivated for centuries and are used for agriculture, with olive trees and vineyards that extend all over. The first village we encounter is called Riomaggiore. Along with Monterosso, it is the only one that can be reached by car, and the easy accessibility has brought traffic which spoils its old charm. Like the other four villages, Riomaggiore clings to the cliffs of this magnificent stretch of coast. Foreign tourists are swarming into the lively cafés and shops, and children swim among the colourful fishing boats moored in rows in the small port.
We continue to the next village walking along the so called Via dell’Amore – Lovers’ Path – which goes from Riomaggiore to Monterosso. The path is accessible until dark and it is very common to find couples who sit tight on the benches along the way, enjoying the blue and gold sunset on the sea – easy to guess why it is called Lovers’ Path. The pastel coloured houses of the next village, Manarola, are built on a steep black rock overlooking the sea. The cultivated terraces are above the village, and Manarola is known for the production of superb extra-virgin olive oil and an inebriating wine. The food sold in the shops or served in the restaurants is still produced according to ancient traditions handed down through generations. Like Manarola, the other villages of Corniglia and Vernazza are built on steep rugged strip of coast. These farming communities are the most remote of the Five Lands, and with imposing marble constructions they are arguably the most charming of the five villages.
After 7 hours of walking, we reach Moneterosso dead-tired but overwhelmed with happiness. After renting a simple en-suite room we enjoy some local food. We order farinata – a savoury pancake made with chickpeas flour and baked in a wood stove – and pasta with the pesto sauce, made of fresh basil leaves, garlic, salt, pine nuts, pecorino cheese, and the locally produced extra-virgin olive oil.
A restoring sleep prepares us for the last day that we spend lazily sunbathing on the beach. The seashore gets so crowded that people literally lay down elbow-to-elbow, and listening to the neighbours’ conversation becomes an amusing pastime. Each and every muscle of our bodies is aching and walking back to Portovenere is simply not an option. We opt for cueing to embark on the ferry which every hour tosses dozens of tourists on the pier and picks up tens of others.
Sailing back to Portovenere is a very pleasant experience if you manage to get a seat on the deck, from where you can enjoy the panorama and are distant enough from the unlucky ones who feel seasick. In less than an hour we are back to the car and set to travel back to the hurly-burly of our family’s home. Our weekend has passed quickly, too quickly, and we wish we could have more time.
© Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri, 2007 – 2010. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Claudia Giampietri and Appunti. Claudia Giampietri with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
February 14, 2009
Parlando di Mutilazione Genitale Femminile…
Da qualche settimana sto intensificando le ricerche sulla mutilazione genitale femminile in Uganda praticata tra le tribù dei sabini, pokot, e in certe aree della Karamoja.
Dieci giorni fa ho avuto il piacere e l’onore di intervistare Jane Frances Kuka, un donna sabini ex ministro e segretaria del presidente Museveni che scampò alla mutilazione genitale da bambina e ha speso la sua vita adulta a combattere la pratica con l’obbiettivo di ridurre a zero il numero di ragazze circoncise nella sua regione.
I sabini occupano la regione ad est dell’Uganda, nella zona del Monte Elgon oltre i confini con il Kenya (una parte del Parco Nazionale del Monte Elgon é kenyota – si dice che Idi Amin l’abbia venduta al governo del Kenya di allora in cambio di un’estensione altrove).
Il 6 febbraio é la giornata internazionale contro la mutilazione genitale femminile e le mie ricerche mi hanno portato proprio tra i sabini, che celebravano l’evento nel distretto di Bukwo, a tre ore di strada malmessa dal distretto di Kapchorwa. Entrambi i distretti sono noti per la pratica dell’mgf e sebbene in Kapchorwa il numero di ragazze circoncise sia sceso parecchio, a Bukwo risiedono alcuni degli accaniti sostenitori della mutilazione genitale femminile, che loro preferiscono chiamare circoncisione.
Nel distretto di Kapchorwa fa base un’organizzazione non governativa, REACH, impegnata da anni nelle campagne contro la mutilazione genitale. Beatrice Chelangat é a capo dei progetti di REACH finanziati dai Paesi Bassi e da alcune agenzie delle Nazioni Unite (UNFPA in prima fila).
Sono arrivata a Kapchorwa nel primo pomeriggio di martedí 3 febbraio. Kapchorwa é collegata alla capitale da una strada asfaltata ma il distretto é decisamente ancora in via di sviluppo. Mercoledì mattina incontro Martin nella ”hall” dell’albergo. Martin é un ragazzo che fa volontariato per REACH. Davanti a una tazza di caffè mi spiega il programma della giornata e fa scivolare dalla mia parte del tavolo un A4 con la tabella di marcia. Rimango piacevolmente stupita dalle interviste che mi aspettano. Tra le persone da sommergere di domande ci sono: due circoncisori (due donne sabini che di mestiere effettuano l’operazione), due mentrici (sono donne che preparano le ragazze alla cerimonia), due rappresentati del consiglio degli anziani, una vittima della mgf, e un attivista contro l’mgf.
A queste persone é stato dato appuntamento nella sede di REACH. Tutti mi hanno dato il permesso di registrare e seguendo il consiglio di Beatrice ho dato ad ognuno due euro (5000 scellini ugandesi) un incentivo ad aprirsi e raccontare.
Le prime ad essere intervistate sono state le ‘mentrici’ (foto sopra), due donne sulla sessantina in abiti tradizionali. Una mentrice viene contattata dalla famiglia quando é tempo per la ragazza/bambina di essere circoncisa. Questa donna parla con la vittima prima della cerimonia e viene pagata per questo servizio. Quello che una mentrice dice non puó per nessuna ragione essere rivelato. È ritenuto un segreto e il renderlo noto porterebbe male. Da quello che so parlando con altri e leggendo sull’argomento, parte del compito della mentrice é di convincere la ragazza ad essere forte, non urlare, e non muoversi. Un minimo segno di debolezza da parte della vittima durante il rito della circoncisione (che é pubblico) recherebbe immensa vergogna alla famiglia che – in certi casi – si trova costretta a liberarsi della figlia codarda. Se la ragazza confessa alla mentrice di non essere pronta al rito, l’unica cosa che la mentrice puó fare é parlare con la famiglia che ha l’ultima parola sul da farsi.
Dopo la mentrice entra in gioco la ‘chirurga’ (foto sopra, chirurga sulla sinistra e assistente sulla destra) a volte accompagnata da un’assistente. Parentesi: la notte prima della circoncisione le donne del vicinato si ritrovano e tutti ballano fino a mattina, fino al momento dell’operazione. È abbastanza comune che le giovani vittime debbano bere mistugli di erbe che hanno un effetto sedativo. Chiusa parentesi. Giunge mattina e la chirurga si reca sul posto. Di solito vengono circoncise piú ragazze tutte insieme. Chi é la chirurga? Una donna, sabini, circoncisa a sua volta, a cui lo spirito ha rivelato la sua missione: essere una ‘circoncisore’. Entrambe le donne che ho intervistato mi hanno detto di essersi ammalate. La malattia sembrava durare a lungo fino a che lo spirito non é apparso loro in sogno / visione. Dal momento in cui hanno ascoltato lo spirito e cominciato a circoncidere la malattia é scomparsa. Sembra anche che in una delle visioni venga spiegato come condurre l’operazione. Ognuna di loro ha un coltello/lama a disposizione che usa per tutti (questo fino a che qualcuno illustrò i rischi dell’HIV/AIDS, e da qualche anno usano una lama per ogni persona). Ovviamente queste donne vengono pagate dalla famiglia. Una di loro mi ha detto di chiedere 50 mila scellini ugandesi per circoncidere una donna che ha giá partorito (una cifrona!!!); mentre 30 mila per una ”fresca”. Dicevamo, la chirurga arriva sul posto di mattina insieme ad un’assistente. L’assistente introduce delle erbe che hanno effetto anestetico all’interno della vagina. La chirurga taglia. L’assistente mette delle altre erbe sulla ferita per favorire la cicatrizzazione. La ragazza per settimane sará immobilizzata. La sua urina é considerata il miglior disinfettante. Ora, il clitoride e le parti genitali tagliate vengono sepolti in un luogo ovviamente segreto insieme al sangue sgorgato. Perché segreto? Perché persone malintenzionate potrebbero usare le parti mutilate per stregoneria e recare danno alla ragazza.
Queste due donne, la mentrice e la chirurga, sono le due figure fondamentali nel rito della circoncisione. Da quando nel 1996 sono cominciate le crociate contro la mutilazione genitale femminile, molte di queste donne che trovavano sostentamento economico nelle loro attività di mentrici e chirurghe si sono trovate con sempre meno guadagni e alcune sono finite a fare la fame, mentre altre si sono spostate oltre confine per cercare ”lavoro”.
Bena é una vittima della mutilazione. È una ragazza di 27 anni con lo sguardo perso e la voce bassa che mi racconta la sua tragedia. I genitori di Bena non l’hanno circoncisa. Hanno sempre difeso la figlia dalle pressioni della comunitá che disapprovava la scelta. Ma a lei il rito di iniziazione é stato risparmiato. Si é sposata dieci anni fa, diventando seconda moglie di un uomo che presto diventerá il suo peggior nemico. Rimane incinta della suo primogenita e il marito si rammarica che non sia nato un bel maschietto, ma spera nella prossima gravidanza. Poco dopo arriva la seconda figlia e di nuovo il marito storce il naso. Ma continua a sperare che il prossimo sia finalmente maschio. Seguono altre due gravidanze e mamma Bena mette al mondo altre due principesse. Il marito perde la pazienza, si arrabbia con Bena e le da la colpa della disgrazia, quattro figlie femmine! D’un tratto, nella mente del marito tutto diventa chiaro e capisce dove sta il problema. Secondo lui Bena ha partorito solo femmine perché non é stata circoncisa. Una ragazza non circoncisa rimane per sempre una mela acerba, sarà sempre immatura e non all’altezza. A lui il problema sembra avere una soluzione: quello che non é stato fatto a suo tempo puó ancora essere portato a termine, e cosí decide di organizzare la circoncisione alla giovane moglie. Bena non ha scampo. Marito e suocera la obbligano a sottoporsi alla mutilazione genitale femminile. Una notte Bena viene portata dai vicini di casa dove altre due ragazze si preparavano ad essere circoncise. Quella notte si ballava e a Bena sono state offerte bevande a base di erbe. Si sentiva stanca, frustrata, depressa e violentata nei suoi diritti. Ma troppo spaventata e sola per scappare. Con i primi raggi del sole appare la ”chirurga” con la sua assistente e si preparano a mettere fine all’adolescenza delle fanciulle che ben presto saranno donne da maritare. Quando toccò a Bena, qualcosa andò storto e il sangue che perse fú così tanto che le chirurghe si resero conto che stavano per mettere fine alla sua vita. Miracolosamente, la ferita di Bena si emarginò da sola, come tutte le ferite morali e psicologiche inflitte alla poveraccia. Una volta fatto il danno, il marito chiamò la madre di Bena che accorse e scoppiò in lacrime non appena realizzò l’accaduto. E con il danno anche la beffa. Dopo avere circonciso la moglie a forza, il marito la ripudiò. Da allora Bena e le sue quattro figlie vivono con la nonna e nutrono un odio smisurato per il padre. Il trauma psicologico subito da Bena è inimmaginabile. Il suo é uno dei tanti spaventosi incubi che giovani e non giovani donne vivono. La sua vita é stata distrutta e quello che é riuscita a ricostruire é fragile come il cristallo. Bena vive attraverso le sue figlie e i loro sogni e spera che un giorno li possano realizzare.
Il compito degli attivisti di REACH é di aiutare persone come Bena a superare, meglio dire gestire, i traumi. In Uganda non esiste ancora una legge che criminalizza la mutilazione genitale femminile (é stata di recente valutata una proposta di legge che é sotto revisione) ma ci sono strumenti internazionale per la protezione dei diritti delle donne. Bena ha fatto appello alla commissione ugandese per i diritti umani e il marito é stato severamente multato. Il problema é la mancanza di controlli e sta di fatto che quest’uomo non paga alla moglie e alle figlie la cifra definita dal tribunale. Organizzazioni come REACH fanno di tutto per sensibilizzare la comunità sull’argomento e promuovere l’educazione per le ragazze che attraverso la scuola e un lavoro possono garantirsi un futuro diverso, emancipandosi da famiglia e mariti/compagni su cui altrimenti dipendono.
Gli anziani sabini che ho intervistato fanno parte del Consiglio degli anziani e hanno un ruolo chiave nella compagna contro l’mfg. La loro influenza all’interno della comunità é uno strumento per raggiungere i piú accaniti sostenitori. Tra i membri del Consiglio che ho intervistato c’era William Cheborion a cui nel 1998 é stato conferito un premio da Kofi Annan alle Nazioni Unite per la sua lotta contro la mutilazione e per i diritti delle donne. È un uomo di 83 anni la cui saggezza mi é quasi inspiegabile. Nonostante abbia tre mogli si professa tenace sostenitore dei diritti delle donne e attivista contro la mutilazione genitale femminile. Negli ultimi 14 anni di campagne é riuscito insieme ad altri a convincere parte delle comunità a terminare questa pratica che viola i diritti delle donne.
Per debellare l’mgf, il gruppo etnico de sabini si é unito ai maasai del Kenya tra cui l’mgf é tristemente diffusa. Jane, la coordinatrice dei progetti tra i Maasai (donna maasai foto sopra) che ho incontrato nel distretto di Bukwo il 6 febbraio mi raccontava delle difficoltà nel penetrare certi villaggi. Pur appartenendo allo stesso gruppo etnico spesso sono stati cacciati con la violenza da certi posti dove le comunità maasai non vogliono essere messe in discussione e l’mgf é ancora un tabu. Jane, che come Frances Kuka é scampata alla mgf, lavora sodo con la chiesa protestante nella campagne di sensibilizzazione e protezione delle donne e hanno di recente introdotto un rito alternativo per marcare il passaggio nella vita adulta, e sperano che con il tempo possa sostituire in toto la mutilazione.
La mutilazione genitale femminile viene praticata da tempi immemorabili in Paesi dell’Africa, Asia e Medio Oriente, già da prima della comparsa delle religioni monoteistiche. Le ragioni dietro la circoncisione femminile sono diverse: é una pratica culturale di iniziazione, in altre parole una bambina diventa una donna. Se decidi di non farti circoncidere la pressione della comunità é spesso insostenibile. Una donna non circoncisa ha negato l’accesso a tantissime attività: non puó mungere le vacche, non puó salire su un granaio, non puó parlare in pubblico, non puó sposarsi, non puó avere figli etc… (Bena é stata presa come seconda moglie perché non era circoncisa). Altre ragioni sono legate al perpetuarsi della societá patriarcale e al controllo delle donne. La maggior parte delle donne circoncise non hanno più nessuna sensazione durante l’atto sessuale che dopo la circoncisione diventa spesso doloroso causa della cicatrice. L’mgf é spesso praticata perché i sostenitori ritengono che deprivando una donna della possibilità di provare piacere nell’atto sessuale sia il modo migliore di preservare la verginità della fanciulla fino al matrimonio, e assicurare la fedeltà coniugale dopo. In alcuni casi, la vagina viene chiusa sufficientemente per poter aumentare il piacere del partner maschile. Questo significa anche che le donne soffrono di dolori mestruali fortissimi, durante l’atto sessuale, sono soggette alla formazione di fistole dopo i vari parti, e rischiano di morire durante il travaglio perché il feto non riesce ad uscire.
Rispetto al passato, oggi sempre piú ragazze ricevono un’educazione e scelgono di non essere circoncise. Ma il fatto che qualcuna possa riuscire a scegliere o sfuggire all’mfg non é una garanzia e il numero di giovani e giovanissime che ogni anno in diverse parti del mondo si sottopongono – o vengono sottoposte – al rito é ancora troppo alto.
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December 16, 2008
Do They Hear You When You Cry, by Fauziya Kassindja
Do They Hear You When You Cry is the true story of Fauziya Kassindja who was finally granted asylum in the United States on June 13, 1996.
She left Togo – her beloved homeland – after her father died. Fauzyia’s father was a progressive man who had always shielded her against tribal practices who wanted young Muslim girls circumcised and sold into marriages. Thanks to him, Fauziya went to study in Ghana and a bright future seemed to be in store for her. Dreams shattered when the father died and reality became a nightmare. The death of her father deprived Fauzyia of protection and security. She was forced to marry as a fourth wife at the age of seventeen by her relatives. She was preparing to undergo the ritual of the genital circumcision when, only hours before the ceremony, her sister helped her to escape and put her on an airplane to Europe. In Europe a new life started, but events lead Fauziya to try her luck in the United States. She managed to get on the plane with a fake passport and as soon as she stepped on the US soil she honestly and openly declared to be a clandestine immigrant seeking for asylum. Desperately.
She thought that her honesty and the risks of being killed or forced to circumcision that she was actually running if sent back home would be enough to convince the immigration officers.
In fact, it wasn’t. She remains in the United States without really entering the country: Fauziya is stripped naked, deprived of her belongings, provided with used underwear and cloths, and imprisoned by the Immigration and Naturalization Service.
The book is a first person narration of her story of asylum seeker ended up in prison for an endless time. Thanks to a law student who involved experts and human rights activists, Fauziya was eventually granted asylum. Her story is an eye-opener on many accounts. First, it shows the delicate and controversial circumstances of women who seek asylum in the US and the inhuman treatment these people often receive while in prison. Second, Fauziya’s case helped to highlight the plight of women threatened by female genital mutilation in their home countries, and provided the legal grounds for other refugees to be granted asylum in the United Stated on the base of gender persecution.
December 3, 2008
Mayada. Daughter of Iraq by Jean Sasson
Jean Sasson, the author of Mayada Daughter of Iraq, met the protagonist of the book, Mayada, in Iraq in 1998. Jean went to Iraq to witness how Iraqi people were living under the sanctions, and indeed was hoping to find the subject for a new book. As soon as Jean arrived in Baghdad, she went to the Ministry of Information and asked to be assigned a female translator. Since she was primarily interested in Arab women’s issues, Jean knew that no Arab woman would speak openly to an Arab man. She was given Mayada.
Mayada and Jean easily became friends and once Jean left Iraq they kept in touch on a regular basis. Inexplicably, Jean suddenly stopped hearing news from the Iraqi friend until one day she received a call: it was Mayada.
Mayada had been imprisoned and when she was finally released after weeks of dreadful detention, she fled to Jordan. However, her experience of detention became known years after when Saddam was removed from power. Only then, Mayada decided to disclose her story to her friend Jean Sasson, so that the world could know the truth of Iraqi life under Saddam.
Besides her recounts of life in prison where she was sharing the cell 52 with other brave and innocent women whose stories are also part of the book, the novel is enriched with details of Mayada’s powerful Iraqi family who lived in an era of grandeur and freedom, painfully shattered by Saddam’s regime.
The experience that these ‘’shadow women” undergo in prison is menat to be a portait of the last and worst years of the regime, and Mayada becomes the vehicle to make the truth known beyond the walls of the cell 52.
