Originated by volcanoes’ eruptions, Lake Bunyonyi can enchant you with its charming nature and spellbinding stories. It is a place to calm the mind and find peace among waveless waters and bygone lifestyles.
by Claudia Giampietri
Article published on the issue 29 of African Woman
http://www.africanwomanmagazine.net/
Reaching Lake Bunyonyi from Kamapala is quite a trip. The lake lies in the south-western part of Uganda on the border with Rwanda and D.R. Congo. Although some tourists’ guides suggest that Kabale, the closest town to the lake, is six hours by car from Kampala, I doubt the claim. You could make it in six hours of non-stop driving, only if you hit the road before sunrise to avoid the traffic out of town, overtake all the trucks and lorries, manage to control the inevitable call of nature, and ignore the policemen who, placed in strategic spots, readily point the speedometer at your car and look at your helpless face with an ironic expression which says: ”Gotcha!”
We made it in nine hours, with a stopover at the equator for a coffee, and our speed slowed down by trucks, potholes, and police officers. We reached Kabale on a Thursday afternoon and once branched off shortly after the town center, the lake suddenly appears from behind one of the numerous hills. Beautiful hilly islands covered with a lush vegetation are scattered over the surface of the waveless lake. A dirt road skirts the lake, and eco-friendly resorts follow one after the other, offering accommodations for different budgets. We headed to the Bunyonyi Overland Resort which seemed to be quite busy and lively at our arrival. Guests can be accommodated in cottages and rooms but we opted for the furnished tents, all supplied with electricity, and mounted on raised platforms each with it’s own terrace and romantic views over the lake. A lovely dinner with fresh crayfish in lemon sauce and mashed potatoes was followed by few drinks sipped while sitting around the huge lakefront campfire. The lake’s high altitude – nearly 2000 meters – makes it is rather cold and the warmth emanated from the fire is even more enjoyable after sunset. This area is known for its atypical African temperatures, yet the most welcome effect of the chilly weather is the virtual absence of mosquitos.
On the second day, staff members dished out coffee, French toasts and interesting information about the activities and the history of the area populated by the Bakiga, known in Uganda to be the tough and hard working people, something they were clearly very proud of. In Rukiga – the Bakiga’s language – the word bunyonyi means ‘the place of many little birds’ and with over 200 birds species, no wonder why bird-watching is one of the main touristic attractions. Apparently, Lake Bunyonyi owes its existence to a volcanic eruption that blocked a river exit less than ten thousand years ago. The volcanos responsible for its formation loom on the horizon on the border with Rwanda and D.R. Congo and watch at the lake from a distance. Already gifted with an amazing nature, Bunyonyi was made even more attractive by its inhabitants who created space for agriculture cutting down part of the woods. As a result the lake is surrounded by terraced and neatly cultivated hillsides that have made the area known as the ‘little Switzerland of Africa’. Rumor has it that the lake reaches a depth of approximately 900 metres. Though this information is often contested, if it is true Bunyonyi would be the second deepest lake in the continent. Being free of bilharzia and safe from hippos and crocodiles, Lake Bunyonyi is surely one of the friendliest body of water in the continent.
There are 29 islands on the lake and canoeing is a must-do activity and the best way to explore them and discover the history and legends that make them famous. Left the mainland, we gently paddled on sluggish waters while we met other canoes, some filled with people and goods, others with students, that are travelling fast to reach markets, schools, or home.
We headed to Bushara island where a utterly ecological campsite would give us shelter for the remaining days. On the way, we passed by Akampene or ‘Punishment Island’, a tiny strip of land surrounded by water, probably the island with the saddest story. It seems that until the end of the nineteenth century, members of the Bakiga tribe used to abandon girls who became pregnant out of wedlock. At that time swimming skills were rare and those who tried to reach the mainland drowned. The island is treeless and deprived of any source of food. In fact, girls would die from hunger unless the Bakiga’s men unable to afford the bride price decided to take them as wives, saving them from their fate.
Another island visible from Akampene is Bwama or Sharp’s Island which is rather big and covered with bright green vegetation. It was named after Dr. Leonard Sharp, a scottish missionary who established a leprosy centre on the island in 1931. At that time there were no medications available and the goal of Dr. Sharp was to isolate the suspected cases to stop the disease from spreading. The then uninhabited Bwama island seemed to be perfectly suitable for the purpose and thousands of people were sent from all over East Africa. When in the 1980s the drug for leprosy was issued, patients were allowed to leave. The building of the hospital was then turned into a boarding school which nowadays attracts students from the entire region.
While canoeing the last bit which separaes us from the landing dock of Bushara island, our guide tells us the incredible story of Bucuranuka, ‘Upside Down Island’. The legend says that a group of men chased away a woman after mistaking her for a beggar. The old lady, offended and deluded, left the island which soon afterwards turned upside down killing the imprudent victims.
Skeptical and amused we finally approached Bushara, home of Lake Bunyonyi Development Company. The activities organized on the island and the money generated by the accommodations at the campsite are used for sustainable development projects around the lake. Once reached the dock, the staff welcomed us warmly and we started climbing the hill following a trail among an impressive eucalyptus forest which covers the entire island and fills the air with fragrance.
The accommodation on Bushara is essential. Furnished tents and cottages are located along the perimeter of the lake, while the restaurant is on top of the hill. On Bushara there is no electricity or running water, though buckets of cold and hot water are supplied by the stuff on request. It is probably its essential simplicity that makes Bushara campsite quite attractive to visitors who can enjoy days with a different tempo, a bygone rhythm that modern lifestyles and facilities have eroded.
As soon as the sun disappears behind the hills, local staff starts lighting the campfire. Lanters are placed on the tables where guests are served simple and unpretentious food. Far away from the lights of the city, the night at the lake is pitch dark and the sky is one of the most stunning and starry I have ever seen, with constellations visible with the naked eye.
Something you shouldn’t miss, besides swimming in the cold but friendly waters and getting lost in the eucalyptus forest, is a visit to the Kyevu market on the shores close to the Rwandan border. Reachable in a couple of hours with a motor boat and a fairly easy hike it is not really worth for the merchandise sold – though nicely decorated pots and cloths can be tempting – but rather for the parade of canoes approaching the shores and the spectacle of hundreds of people busy selling their wares while other hundreds are busy picking, bargaining and buying.
We left the lake on the fourth day after psyching ourselves for the long trip back. Lake Bunyonyi, with its an enchanting nature, its legends and fascinating stories able intrigue curious travellers, is a place worth a thousand of visits.
